When I create custom hair colour shades, sometimes they don’t turn out the way I expect. What are the most common formulation mistakes professionals make and how can I fix them?
- Naira S, Bangalore
The most common mistake isn’t the formulation; it’s in the consultation. Often, stylists don’t probe deeply enough to understand the client’s complete colour history. Clients may have previously used box dyes, applied henna, or undergone other treatments. Unless specifically asked, they may not volunteer this information. When stylists assume the hair is virgin without verifying, it can lead to major disappointment later, especially when the colour fails to lift or reacts unpredictably.
I love global trends like balayage and pastel tones, but my clients mostly have Indian hair textures and warm undertones. How can I adapt these trends realistically for them?
- Shruti Srivastav, Noida
Balayage and pastel tones are beautiful, but they work best on certain hair type, typically finer hair with a lighter base colour. This especially requires a very light foundation to show up true to shade, and they demand consistent maintenance with regular toning sessions. When working with Indian hair textures, which are often darker and warmer in undertone, these trends can still be achieved, but realistically and gradually. It’s important to educate clients that lifting dark hair to a pastel-ready base may require multiple colour sessions to maintain hair health. Regular toning sessions, proper aftercare, and realistic expectations are non-negotiable. With the right consultation, phased lightening approach, and client agreement on upkeep, global trends can absolutely be adapted beautifully for Indian hair.
Before I recommend chemical services like colour, smoothening, or rebonding, what is the best way to diagnose hair health and avoid long-term damage?
- Poorv Bansal, Jaipur
It’s important to first assess the hair’s health. A simple and essential step is conducting an elasticity or stretch test, especially for clients who want lighter shades like ash blondes, clean blondes, pastel tones, or funky colours such as blue, violet, or pink. These services require heavy lifting, which can stress the hair. The stretch test helps determine whether the hair is strong enough to handle the process. This prevents long-term damage.
My clients want stylish but low maintenance looks. Which cutting and colouring techniques work best for durability and managing regrowth gracefully?
- Adithya Giri, Mumbai
Opt for babylights or fine weaves instead of global colour, as they blend better and help regrowth look softer and more natural. For haircuts, a one-length base at the back with soft forward graduation towards the front works best. It maintains shape as it grows out and is easy to manage daily.
I notice that even after a detailed consultation, some clients feel disappointed with the final colour result. How important is consultation language and visual referencing (swatches, charts, photos) and what’s the right way to use them?
-Nishtha Gill, Chandigarh
This is the most important part of any service. It’s about truly understanding your client, their lifestyle, likes and dislikes, how much time they’re willing to spend styling their hair, whether they prefer loud or subtle colours and understanding their skin tone and hair type. Only then can you recommend the right colour, tone, reflect, and level of lightness based on your expertise. After that, it’s essential to mutually agree on the plan. It can’t be just your way; the client needs to be involved and aligned with what’s being done. That’s what ensures satisfaction with the final result. Visual referencing is equally important. Show relevant swatch shades, charts, or reference photos to set realistic expectations. A pro tip: For confused or fussy clients, do a strand test on a small section of hair. This removes doubt and builds confidence.
MEET THE EXPERT
Shailesh Moolya, National Technical Head at Godrej Professional, brings over 20 years of hairdressing experience. Specialising in short hairstyles and updos, he transitioned from a fiveyear IT career to hairstyling, earning certifications from Vidal Sassoon and other leading institutions. Known for his client-first approach, he focuses on creating looks that enhance individual personalities. His work with multiple celebrities further reflects his versatility and expertise.
To participate in Ask Our Expert and get your questions answered by Shailesh Moolya, message your query to @pbhjindia on Instagram or email to afrin.idex@gmail.com. *Questions have been edited for clarity and length.