Remember the early 90s? Poker-straight hair was the ultimate beauty statement in India, even though it meant hours in the stylist’s chair and the unmistakable whiff of chemicals. Today, the sleek-hair movement is more nuanced. Salon menus have expanded beyond traditional rebonding to include keratin, cysteine, botox and even exotic-sounding options like taninoplastia. Each treatment promises smooth, frizz-free hair, but the processes, results and long-term effects vary widely.
As clients come in with Instagram or magazine references, which are at times unrealistic, it is important for hairstylists to understand their requirement and suggest an appropriate treatment. Budget is a prime consideration for the client as the new-age straightening services are quite expensive. Given these parameters, servicing a client with a hair straightening treatment is no longer a simple task. It involves a robust vendor support, technically sound hairstylist, an in-depth consultation and setting of realistic expectations.
Different types of straightening services
1. REBONDING
A chemical treatment that breaks and restructures hair bonds to make strands permanently straight until new growth appears. It delivers a sleek, poker-straight look but requires high heat, strong chemicals and regular touch-ups.
2. SMOOTHENING
A milder version of rebonding that uses softer chemicals to relax curls and waves without flattening hair completely. The result is smoother, more manageable hair with a natural fall that lasts 4-6 months.
3. KERATIN TREATMENT
Infuses hair with keratin protein to repair damage while sealing cuticles for smoother texture and reduced frizz. It doesn’t permanently straighten but improves manageability and lasts 3-5 months with proper care.
4. HAIR BOTOX
A deep-conditioning, anti-ageing hair treatment that fills gaps in the hair shaft with proteins, amino acids and vitamins. It softens frizz, restores shine and slightly relaxes waves without altering natural bonds.
5. CYSTEINE TREATMENT
A formaldehyde-free smoothing service using cysteine, a natural amino acid, to tame frizz and soften curls. Safe for most hair types, including coloured hair, it leaves hair glossy and manageable for up to five months.
6. TANINOPLASTIA
A plant-derived smoothing method that uses tannins from grape skins or other botanicals to restructure hair. Known for its natural formulation and gentle results, it smooths without heavy chemical alteration and lasts 4-6 months.
7. JAPANESE STRAIGHTENING (THERMAL RECONDITIONING)
An intensive process combining chemicals and flat ironing to permanently restructure hair into a straight pattern. Delivers extremely sleek results but involves significant heat and chemical exposure.
8. BRAZILIAN BLOWOUT
A keratin-based smoothing service that uses liquid keratin and heat to create a protective protein layer around the hair shaft. It reduces frizz, adds shine and gives a smooth finish for about three months.
Reasons why clients want straightening
1. To achieve a sleek, polished look that stays smooth and frizz-free in all weather conditions.
2. To cut down daily styling time and effort, making hair easier to manage.
3. To tame naturally curly, wavy or unruly textures for a uniform appearance.
4. To enhance shine and smoothness, giving hair a healthier-looking finish.
5. To enjoy a confidence boost from a style that aligns with their personal or professional image.
CONS OF HAIR STRAIGHTENING
Ashwin Mahajan, Founder, The Opulent Salon, points out that one of the main problems with hair straightening treatments is that if the product touches the scalp, it can cause irreversible issues for scalp health. In most straightening procedures, it is almost impossible to prevent the cream from coming in contact with the scalp, which creates certain limitations and concerns. Over time, hair breakage and noticeable texture differences between the treated hair and new growth can also be a very unpleasant experience.
Ragani Parmar, Senior Stylist, Nalini of Nalini and Yasmin Salon, lists out the drawbacks and risks of straightening services. “The treatments cause fading of coloured hair to a very brassy tone. The risks include overstretched hair stands due to the ironing, leading to the hair losing its natural elasticity over time, Heat damage due to high heat temperatures used and over processed hair.”
SALON PERSPECTIVE
Most salons have two-three different types of straightening services, depending on the salon’s grade and client demographic. Apart from colour, they are the most high-ticket services on a salon’s menu, making them an indispensable part of business. However, the rising awareness amongst hairstylists is leading to conscious choices that are safe for both health and environment.
Mahajan says, “Botox treatments and hair loss treatments are the most recurring, viable and sustainable options. They help hair look manageable, beautiful and presentable without hampering its integrity.”
Parmar emphasises, “As a salon our priority is our clients’ hair health above all. We keep a couple of types of treatments that can deliver the results that we believe in within a certain price range.”
STAFF TRAINING
Straightening treatments require the hairstylist to have good practice and in-depth understanding of the chemicals and products involved. With right knowledge, they will be able to help the client understand the process, the likely damage and the outcome, thereby setting realistic expectations.
“While straightening treatments don’t require any specific certification yet it is important for the staff to be educated by the technical educators of the brand. A sense of responsibility and deep understanding will enable them to personalise the results according to the client’s needs,” opines Mahajan.
“Brand provide our stylists with in-salon training. During training, we like to choose different kinds of hair, along with choosing people whose treatment trajectory can be seen in its entirety. We rarely jump onto treatment trends without first seeing the benefits and drawbacks for ourselves,” says Parmar.
MANAGING CLIENT EXPECTATIONS
“First of all, it’s the sense of responsibility I hold towards my people that is most important. I only suggest to my clients what I believe is right and feasible for my own family, because I need to be convinced first. My people trust me completely, and I value their comfort, confidence, and peace of mind above all else,” affirms Mahajan.
He adds, “For me, care comes first, then the commercial aspect. I always guide my clients on how to approach their hair and educate them about daily practices that add to their hair problems, which we can change to achieve healthier hair. I always suggest applying conditioner before directly shampooing, and using the right shampoo—especially one that is sulphate-free and promotes smooth hair without making it greasy. Serums and leave-in conditioners also play a very essential role when clients want their hair to look its best at all times.”
Parmar stresses on the importance of extensive consultation as it helps in understanding:
1. Client’s hair history
2. The reason and result they are looking for
3. Their current hair health This is followed by providing the client with all the information regarding:
1. Their current hair health
2. The pros and cons of treatments
3. The difference between treatments
4. Creating trust by being well versed with the science of hair and the treatments nuanced processes ourselves.
5. Dos and don’ts
6. Extreme focus on post care
CONCLUSION
While sleek, smooth hair remains a timeless desire, the right choice depends on informed decisions guided by skilled professionals. With evolving technologies and cleaner formulations, salons now have the tools to deliver beauty without compromise. Ultimately, the best results come from aligning a client’s hair goals with their l ong-term well-being.