Skinification of the scalp

Pre-wash oils and masks, relaxing head massages and scalp scrubs have been adopted as prequel to hair spas. This trend didn’t happen overnight. Customers were already doing it as part of homecare but they felt the need for professional help. Hairdressers discovered the myriad benefits of having an extensive scalp and hair care menu. Et voila, we have the perfect marriage of demand and supply. Adding scalp care to your service offering isn’t just a trend gimmick; it actually makes good business sense. Kanishka Ramchandani looks into the ever-evolving world of hair care and analyses the benefits of having a well-curated scalp and hair treatment repertoire at your salon.

A hairdresser has always been the customer’s confidante. Interpersonal relationship with a client more or less defines the success of a hairdresser. Understanding her preferences, the best cuts for her face, the perfect colour for her skin tone and the ideal style for her wedding day are but a few ways in which hairdressers build rapport with their client.

In today’s age of instant information and knowledge-sharing, hairdressers need to step up their game. Discerning and analysing the root cause behind everyday problems like frizzy hair, and suggesting scalp treatments to resolve the issues has become a part of the hairdresser’s expertise. They need to be as well-informed about scalp health as they are about hair. Scalp analysis is an important part of consultation, especially for chemical services.

What works in your favour as a hairdresser or salon owner is that scalp care is not something that you have to ‘upsell.’ We know how much a creative person hates ‘sales’ and it’s the last thing you will have to do with scalp care. It is an organic addition to your existing hair care menu; it enhances your holistic approach to hair care; and you are in your comfort zone while discussing scalp wellness with your client. Your investment involves a separate product portfolio catering specifically to scalp concerns and staff training. You don’t need separate space or equipment. Within a salon set-up, scalp care refers to scalp detox and deep cleansing treatments that help clear product buildup, oiliness or flakiness and relieves itchiness. It is completely non-invasive and superficial, and it is complemented by well-curated hair care rituals.

We recommend investing in a microscopic scalp and hair analysis device, which will help you understand and diagnose scalp conditions and keep a record of the client’s history. As a service category scalp care works for all salon grades. With the hair market maturing rapidly, brands across different price points are available to cater to varied client demographic.

“Instead of ADVISING THE CLIENT as per what the PRODUCT COMPANY has taught you, give them the KNOWLEDGE OF THE SCIENCE of haircare.”

SCALP-CARE IS THE NEW SELF-CARE

The idea behind introducing scalp care treatments in a salon is not to provide medical expertise, albeit to give immediate relief and alleviate certain symptoms. Thus, education and training is paramount as the hairdresser needs to understand the extent of the client’s scalp concerns and the possible solutions. Some of the common concerns are itchiness, flakiness, oiliness, sensitivity and product build-up, which can be addressed in a salon setting. Advanced issues such as hair thinning, hair loss, scalp acne, psoriasis, eczema, etc, should be addressed by a certified medical practitioner only.

Dr Suyomi Shah, MD Dermatologist and Formulator at Dr. Su, states:

“Here are the most common hair and scalp issues people face today:

• Hair thinning (androgenetic alopecia): A common issue caused by genetics and DHT hormone.

• Hair fall (telogen effluvium): Often triggered by stress, nutritional deficiencies especially of iron, folate, zinc, vitamin D, hormonal disorders like PCOS or thyroid dysfunction, postpartum hair fall, crash diet, chemical treatments like in salon keratin/cysteine treatments or sudden illnesses.

• Dandruff and itchy scalp: Caused by an overgrowth of yeast (Malassezia), scalp inflammation, dry weather conditions or wrong hair care products.

• Damaged hair and hair breakage: Results from heat styling, overuse of chemical treatments, hair colouring, hard water or nutritional deficiencies.”

Speaking about adopting a balanced approach towards insalon scalp care, Renée Melek, Art Director, Renée Melek Salon, says, “Even though we have advance technology-based products which are effective in problem solving, our approach has always been to help clients understand why the problem occurred, so they can make lifestyle changes so that their hair care and scalp care may not be complicated.” She also stresses on the importance of using a good quality product to ensure the client’s scalp condition doesn’t worsen.

“We like to analyse the cause and effect before we dive into treatments. Many a time clients need to change their hair habits, which gives them better results. I love to use the 700 series of Biotop Professional on rough and frizzy /damaged hair, while the Fibre Clinix range by Schwarzkopf Professional helps strengthen the hair shaft,” she adds.

Scalp scrubs, scalp detox and scalp facials are trending treatments that focus on deep cleansing the scalp and preparing the hair for moisturising treatments. A clean healthy scalp is receptive to intensive hair treatment, making it more effective and long lasting.

Varun Attri, Founder, Varun Attri Salon, states, “Customers with severe scalp issues like alopecia and hair fall are treated with specialised care, at our salon. This includes a thorough scalp analysis, personalised treatment plans, and the use of medicated shampoos and other therapeutic products. In some cases, referrals to dermatologists or trichologists are made for further treatment.”

However, Melek opines, “Severe scalp issues are not for the salon to handle. A hairdresser’s expertise is to dress and style the hair. To treat scalp issues is the doctor’s area of expertise as these conditions need medication and a doctor is qualified to do so. Severe scalp issues cannot be treated by cosmetic products.”

GET TO THE ROOT OF IT WITH TECHNOLOGY

Incorporating advanced technology and devices into scalp care services enhances precision, effectiveness and client satisfaction in a salon setting. Tools such as scalp analysers and LED therapy devices allow professionals to diagnose concerns accurately and deliver targeted solutions. These innovations help address issues like dandruff, hair thinning and product buildup with greater efficiency than traditional methods.

Attri explains, “Technology and advanced treatments are crucial in enhancing the haircare and scalp care services offered. With our scalp analysis devices, we provide a detailed view of the scalp and hair follicles, diagnosing issues like dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. This allows for personalised treatment plans tailored to each client’s needs. Trichology-based solutions include medicated shampoos, topical applications and dietary supplements to improve scalp health and promote hair growth.

We strongly believe in continuous education and training, we ensure our team undergoes regular training on the latest technologies and treatments, equipping them to handle various hair and scalp issues.

By integrating these advanced technologies and treatments, we at Varun Attri Salon provide effective solutions for hair and scalp issues, enhancing the overall client experience and setting a high standard in the haircare industry.”

Salon professionals must be wellversed in using diagnostic devices, understanding scalp conditions and applying treatments safely. Regular workshops, manufacturer-led training and certifications ensure that stylists can integrate technology seamlessly into their services, providing clients with cutting-edge scalp care solutions while maintaining safety and hygiene standards.

By embracing technology and investing in staff education, salons can position themselves as industry leaders, offering personalised, high-quality scalp care treatments that enhance customer loyalty and overall business growth.

However, despite proficiency in using diagnostic tools, the hairdresser should be in position to sense-check under which conditions to refer the client to medical practitioners.

MATCH THE DEMAND WITH SUPPLY

Today, customers are hyper-aware about latest hair trends. It is likely that when they come to you in a salon, they already know what they want. It is your job to determine if what they want is what they need. This is particularly important for the scalp care category. The types of scalp care services offered by salons include hydrating treatments, exfoliating scalp scrubs, balancing treatments, anti-dandruff therapies, scalp detoxification and soothing treatments for sensitive scalp.

“There has been a noticeable increase in demand for advanced haircare and scalp care services. The global hair care market is projected to grow significantly, driven by rising consumer awareness and demand for personalised and premium services,” comments Attri.

“SALONS can leverage the rising TREND by incorporating advanced TECHNOLOGIES , offering personalised SERVICES and EDUCATING CLIENTS about the importance of SCALP HEALTH .”

To determine the right course of action, a thorough consultation is vital. It is also a good idea to pair scalp treatments with the appropriate hair spa procedures for optimum results.

As a salon owner, you can speak with your hairdressers and ask their opinion on the kind of scalp problems that clients come with, and conduct client surveys to understand what kind of scalp care are they looking for.

“Hairstylists at Varun Attri’s salon undergo extensive training in trichology and intensive scalp study. This includes courses on scalp identification, condition analysis and treatment solutions. Continuous education through workshops and seminars ensures that stylists stay updated with the latest advancements in hair and scalp care,” states Attri.

While selecting the in-salon use products, look for several key ingredients such as tea tree oil, salicylic acid, aloe vera, coconut oil, hyaluronic acid and argan oil.

WHY SCALP CARE MAKES GOOD BUSINESS SENSE?

Adding scalp care to your menu will give you an edge over competition. You can give specialised training to certain members of your staff who can recommend and carry out salon-safe scalp care services without stepping into a trichologist’s or dermatologist’s domain. This will help you attract more clients. For chain salons and A+ salons, it also makes commercial sense to hire a dermatologist and provide specialised care under their guidance.

As a separate category, scalp care allows you to make innovations in your service offerings and marketing strategies as well as increase your revenue. It also enhances the retail sales of specialised hairdresser-recommended products.

You need a multi-pronged strategy to market your scalp care treatments. Here are some ways in which you can do it:

1. Complimentary scalp analysis

2. Packages and offers

3. Social media marketing

4. Customer stories

5. In-salon displays

6. Staff incentives 

7. Collaborations with influencers

HOMECARE: AREAL GAME CHANGER

Attri says, “Homecare is crucial in managing hair loss and scalp issues. Proper homecare routines, including the use of gentle shampoos, conditioners, and scalp treatments, help maintain scalp health and prevent further hair loss. Clients are educated on the importance of a balanced diet, stress management, and regular scalp care at home.”

“We offer handmade shampoo and conditioner bars and flaxseed gel, which have natural ingredient derivatives. They are free of parabens, sulphates and silicones. Many of our clients feel their hair has gone back to the original texture after using these products. We also recommend massage with jojoba oil as it is the closest oil that matches our sebum secretion,” elaborates Melek. Dr Shah recommends these homecare tips:

• Choose your shampoo wisely. For dry scalp and dry hair strands, use sulphatefree shampoos to cleanse the scalp without disrupting the natural barrier.

• Address dandruff with anti-fungal shampoos consisting of zinc pyrithione or salicylic acid.

• Incorporate hair growth serums consisting of ingredients like Anagain and Redensyl regularly in your daily routine.

• Exfoliate the scalp weekly with gentle AHA BHA scalp peels to prevent buildup.

• Oil your hair strands for a couple of hours before shampoo.

• Practice stress management regularly because chronic stress can disrupt the hair growth cycle.